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Adding subtle highlights or a sun-kissed balayage can be a fun way to switch up your look. But letโs face itโusing hair lighteners can be tricky. We’ve all heard those horror stories about bleach disasters, and theyโre definitely enough to make anyone nervous.
The good news is, that with the right steps and a bit of know-how, you can lighten your hair safely and get beautiful results right at home. In this guide, weโll take you through the process step by step so that by the end, youโll feel confident and ready to tackle your transformation.
Step 1: Assess Your Hair Type and Condition
Before you start, assess your hairโs current state. Is it healthy, or have you recently colored, permed, or otherwise treated it? Healthy, virgin hair (the one that hasnโt been colored or chemically treated) is the best candidate for lightening. If your hair is already damaged or over-processed, you might want to reconsider or at least take extra precautions.
Consider Your Hair Type
Your hair type (curly, straight, thick, thin) can affect how it reacts to lightening. For example, thick, coarse hair might require stronger lightening agents or longer processing times compared to fine, thin hair. Understanding your type will help you choose the right products and techniques.
Step 2 – Choose the Right Products
When it comes to lightening,ย bleachย is the most common product used. While bleach is highly effective, itโs also the most damaging, so itโs crucial to use it carefully. If youโre looking for a less intense option, consider using aย lightening kitย or a high-lift color.
These products are less damaging than bleach and can still lift your hair a few shades. However, they may not be as effective for very dark shades.
Developer Strength
The developer is another key component in the lightening process. It activates the bleach or lightener, allowing it to penetrate the hair shaft and remove the color. Developers come in different strengths, measured in volumes (10, 20, 30, 40).
| Developer Volume | Purpose |
| 10 Volume | Best for minimal lightening, often used for subtle color changes or toning. |
| 20 Volume | Ideal for lightening up to two shades and commonly used for gray coverage. |
| 30 Volume | Can lighten hair up to three shades and is suitable for darker hair. |
| 40 Volume | The strongest and most damaging, typically used for extreme lightening, such as going from dark brown to platinum. |
Bond Builders
Bond builders likeย Olaplexย are a game-changer in the world of lightening. These products work by reconnecting the broken bonds in your hair during the bleaching process, minimizing damage.
Step 3 – Prep Your Hair
Before you even think about dying, start by pampering your hair. Deep conditioning treatments and protein masks can strengthen your hair, making it more resilient to the lightening process.
Aim to do these treatmentsย onceย orย twice a weekย for a few weeks leading up to your lightening session.
Avoid Washing Right Before
Surprisingly, itโs best not to wash your hair right before lightening. Natural oils protect your scalp from irritation during the bleaching process. Try to avoid washing it forย at least 48 hours beforeย you plan to lighten it.
Step 4 – The Lightening Process
Before you begin, make sure you have everything you need:
- Bleach or lightening kit
- Developer (appropriate volume for your desired lightness)
- Mixing bowl and brush
- Sectioning clips
- Gloves
- Old T-shirt or towel to protect your clothes
- Timer
- Bond builder (if using)
Mix and Apply
Follow the instructions on your lightening product carefully. Typically, youโll mix the bleach powder and developer in a non-metallic bowl. The consistency should be smooth and creamy, not too runny.
- Start by sectioning your hair into 4 parts:ย 2 in the frontย andย 2 in the back.
- Apply the bleach to the mid-lengths and ends first, as these areas take longer to lighten than the roots.
- After about 10-15 minutes, apply the bleach to the roots.
Processing Time
Once the bleach is applied, set a timer. Processing time can vary depending on your hair type, the strength of the developer, and how light you want to go. Most products recommend leaving the bleach on forย no more than 45 minutes. However, keep a close eye on your hair,ย checking every 10 minutesย to monitor the lightening process.
Rinse and Tone
Once youโve achieved your desired level of lightness, itโs time to rinse out the bleach. Use lukewarm water and a gentle shampoo to thoroughly wash your hair. Follow up with a deep conditioner or a bond-building treatment.
Your hair may have a yellow or brassy tone after bleaching, especially if youโre starting from a darker color. This is where toner comes in. A purple or blue toner neutralizes these unwanted warm tones, leaving you with a cooler, more natural-looking shade.
Step 5 – Post-Lightening Care
After successful lightening, the next crucial step is maintaining its health and vibrancy through proper post-lightening care.
Hydrate and Repair
Lightened hair needs extra love. Regular deep conditioning treatments are essential to keep it hydrated and healthy. Look for products that contain ingredients likeย keratin,ย argan oil, andย shea butterย to nourish and repair your hair.
Avoid Heat Styling
After lightening, your hair will be more vulnerable to heat damage. Try to minimize the use of heat-styling tools like flat irons, curling irons, and blow dryers. When you do use them, always apply a heat protectant spray to avoid further damage.
Protect Your Color
To keep your new color looking fresh, use a sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner designed for color-treated hair. Sulfates can strip away the color and leave your hair dry. Additionally, washing your hair in cooler water can help preserve the vibrancy of your color.
Letโs Not Forget Regular Trims!
Lightening can make your ends more prone to splitting. Schedule regular trims every 6-8 weeks to keep your hair looking healthy and to prevent split ends from traveling up the shaft.
What to Avoid
@emchenhair How to take a test strand 2.0 I posted a test strand how-to a while back on IG & tiktok using a slide cut method to inconspicuously remove the strand. A few of you commented your own ways of doing it. My favorites were: @tiff_thehairsmith said she took thin diagonal slices, @jacs831 said she used thinning shears, someone else commented that said they weaved before cutting (I couldnโt find that comment when I went back to look, so if it was you, let me know!) – so I took all of that feedback, COMBINED all 3 methods, and now I have a NEW favorite way to cut test strands. ๐ค๐ค For anyone asking: โBut why donโt you just test strand while itโs still in the hair & just color back over it?โโฃ โฃ 1๏ธโฃ leaving a singular chunk of โtestedโ hair on the head can create problems later on. If the purpose was to see if it would lift evenly, and then you color back over it, now it will certainly not lift evenlv with the rest of the hair. โฃ โฃ 2๏ธโฃ sometimes the purpose of a test strand is to test the integrity – to see how hair with a complicated color history will stand up to lightener – if it will lift to the target shade or if it will literally ๐ ๐๐๐ง. This is the last thing I want to do on hair thatโs still attached to my clientโs head.โฃ โฃ 3๏ธโฃ if I have reason to suspect there might be metallic salts in the hair (commonly found in box dye) which will begin to ๐ฆ๐ ๐ข๐๐ and ๐๐๐ฆ๐ฆ๐ข๐๐ฉ๐ the hair when lightener is applied, strand testing is a must. Again, thatโs the last thing I want to do on hair thatโs still attached to my clientโs head. โฃ โฃ 4๏ธโฃ and lastly, so my client doesnโt have to awkwardly sit there for like 2 hours waiting for the test strand to lift, and then wait to have it re-colored. โฃI charge hourly, so this would be a very expensive test strand, and a completely unnecessary expense for my client. โฃ I donโt test strand every client, but for those who are looking for color corrections, have suspiciously compromised hair that looks like it has been colored over, or give me any reason to suspect issues when lightening, I absolutely test strand or I donโt do the service. Iโm not willing to risk the consequences of NOT testing. โฃ #correctivecolor #emchenhair
Although it might seem harmless, even small missteps can lead to less-than-ideal results, so it’s crucial to know what pitfalls to watch out for.
Skipping the Strand Test
One of the most common mistakes people make is skipping the strand test. This test involves applying the lightener to a small, hidden section of hair to see how it reacts. Itโs a crucial step that can prevent disasters like over-processing or unexpected color results.
Rushing the Process
We get itโyouโre excited to see the final result. But rushing through the lightening process can lead to uneven color, damage, and disappointment. Take your time, follow the steps carefully, and be patient.
Ignoring Aftercare
Lightening your hair is just the beginning. Ignoring aftercare can quickly undo all your hard work. Make sure youโre giving your hair the hydration, protection, and nourishment it needs to stay healthy and vibrant.
To Sum Up
The secret to safe lightening is all about good preparation, being patient, and taking care of your hair afterward. But if you ever feel unsure or a bit overwhelmed, donโt hesitate to call in a professional. Your hair deserves the best care, and sometimes that means letting an expert handle it.
